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FAQ – Our most frequently asked questions
It’s natural when thinking of having restoration work done in your home to have lots of questions. We will try to answer any query you have about floor sanding and the processes involved – either from your initial inquiry or from a site appointment before the work. See below the FAQ’s
FAQ - Is the floor sanding Actually dust free?
Absolutely dust free, with our machines floor sanding does not produce any dust. Please take a look at our videos page for examples where you can see if any dust is being created.
How do you do Board Repairs?
No matter how well a floor is installed, cracks and splits will inevitably happen – this is the nature of the beast with wooden floors! When this happens it’s so important that the repair is not only blended with the floor and cosmetically appealing but also of a high quality and strong so it wont break again! So obviously matching the right material is key, analysing the type of flooring eg: Is it sprung floor or flat laid floor? How it was fixed down? Is it nailed, screwed or glued? Once this has been determined, the saying ‘measure twice, cut once’ was never more true! After the timber has been cut and fixed appropriately we may need to plane down the timber and/or sand the boards to create a flat smooth surface. Lots of tools are required for this simple task: Drills, jig saws, isolators, hammers, chisels, chop saw and planers!
FAQ - What is wood Staining?
Staining is the process of colouring the wood. The floor has to be sanded to a smooth finish and close to the grain as much as possible, leaving the floor clean and free of all grease. After choosing a colour (and there are MANY), you must be very careful when combining stains and finishes as they have to cure between applications and/or bond with each other, otherwise it will fail when applying finish on top of stains and you will have to start sanding all over again! Normally after choosing a finish the staining of a floor is a lengthy and hard job, making absolutely sure that every inch is covered, leaving no excess and getting no stain on anything other than the floor because you will not get it off. Application is key! Test patches are important as a stain will take differently to different types of wood, simply because some woods have more natural oils, different grain patterns and different natural wood colour.
Whats better, lacquering or oiling?
After the sanding process has been completed and the floor has a high smooth finish, free from any dirt or grease then your floor is ready for finishing! There are literally so many products out there for finishing your floor but there are three basic types of finish: solvent based, water based and oil based. Solvent based finishes are strong but very dated and VOC levels go against most health and safety standards. This leaves us with most popular types: firstly oil. Oil based finishes for your sanded floors are the most traditional method. This is because the oil is absorbed into the floor, adding a deep rich finish and preserving the wood. Downsides include long drying time and high maintenance. Last but certainly not least is lacquer or water based: this has all the advantages for modern day living; very quick drying times, strong, low odour and leaves a good finish. 1. Solvents require one coat application and dry within around 3 hours 2. Oils require 2 coats and dries within around 8/10 hours 3. Lacquer (water based) require 2/3 coats and dries on average under an hour.
How long does floor sanding take?
On every project we will have at least 2 members of the team. We have 6 site engineers who can be called upon to meet targets if a project needs to be completed ASAP. Generally though floor sanding will only take a matter of a few days for room size between 10-50sqm
FAQ - What is meant by “Resining the Gaps”?
Or referred to as ‘filling gaps in floor’ Often this is done with a resin (our preferred product is Leccoll 7500). You mix some fine sawdust from the floor you are intending to fill with the resin and mix until a paste is made. You then simply screed across the floor and remove top surface. This adds a more finished feel to most parquet floors. When you have a ‘straight lay’ floor, such as pine boards for example, the gaps are far too wide and have no sub-floor ie. concrete underneath, therefore the material will simply fall through over time! So a different tack is necessary, you need some bits of timber cut into slivers so that you can glue and knock them into gaps and saw and sand off! This is the best solution for straight lay floors. However we had an example recently, where the client had already finished the floor but the gaps were too big. Naturally we didn’t want to cause disturbance to a clients already finished floor, because if you put timber in then obviously this needs to be sanded which you don’t want to do to a newly restored floor! So we tape up either side and put two coats of putty down and plane off with a blade. The putty was so thick it sat in place and dried hard. allowing us to then finish.