45 years’ experience  ·  Rated 4.9 on Google  ·  Family-run, from our workshop near Wellington

45 years’ experience · Rated 4.9 on Google · Family-run

Floor Sanding and Wood Floor Restoration in Sherborne

Specification-led work on Sherborne’s historic town house floors, plus school hall and sports floor refinishing with in-house line marking.

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Floor sanding before and after

Floor Sanding in Sherborne Town Houses

Sherborne is one of the most historic towns we work in. Much of the old centre is built of the ochre-coloured Ham stone quarried not far away, and the town has several hundred listed buildings, from grand houses down to modest cottages on the side streets. Inside them is a remarkable variety of timber: broad oak and elm boards in the oldest rooms, deal floors from Georgian and Victorian refits, later oak strip, and parquet in houses that were modernised between the wars.

That variety means floor sanding in Sherborne cannot follow a single recipe. A wide elm board that has moved and twisted over two hundred years will not sit flat under a belt sander the way a straight run of modern oak does; the machine will ride the high points and miss the hollows. A deal floor with years of dark varnish round its edges will need a different first cut from a bare oak floor that only needs its old seal removed. So the first job is always to look closely at what is there.

The practical sequence of wood floor sanding is familiar enough: a first pass to remove coatings and level the surface, then progressively finer abrasives to clear the scratches left by the coarser ones, then edges and corners blended into the main area. What changes in a historic house is how hard each stage is pushed. On an old floor, the opening grit is chosen to do as little as it can, and the depth of cut is checked against the remaining thickness of the boards as work proceeds. Where boards have been sanded several times before, there may be very little left to work with.

Dust control is essential in rooms with ornate plasterwork, panelling or valuable contents. Plaster enrichment and old silk curtains are dust traps, so the sanders run through a sealed collector that draws the powder off at the abrasive. That arrangement is what we sell as dust-free floor sanding, and in a drawing room with an egg-and-dart cornice it is what saves a week of dusting afterwards.

Our family business is based near Wellington in Somerset and treats the Sherborne area as regular territory. Floor sanding in Sherborne takes us into everything from a single bedroom in a cottage to a large hall in a school, and each job begins with a free survey.

Wood Floor Restoration in Sherborne's Listed and Historic Buildings

When a floor sits inside a listed building, the work needs more thought before it starts than after. Floors can form part of what makes a building special, especially early boards, unusual patterns or evidence of how a house was altered over time, and there are rules about altering them. Wood floor restoration in Sherborne’s historic properties therefore starts with documentation as much as with sanding.

The survey gathers the facts. Board widths, thicknesses and species are recorded, along with how the boards are fixed, whether there are earlier repairs or later insertions, and the moisture and ventilation conditions beneath. Any original finish that might survive under later coats is noted. Owners of listed houses are wise to photograph each room before anything is touched, so a record of the floor as found exists alongside the paperwork.

From that comes a written specification: what is proposed, which boards will be repaired or replaced and with what timber, how much material will be removed, which finish will be used and whether it can later be removed without damaging the timber. That document can be shared with the conservation officer as part of any application. Obtaining listed building consent, where it is needed, is the owner’s responsibility, but a clear specification makes the conversation far easier.

Several principles usually shape the specification. Keep historic boards wherever possible, even if they are worn or patched. Repair rather than replace. Use matching reclaimed timber for any new pieces, so the repair is honest but harmonious. Choose coatings a future owner could take off or top up gently, as a later generation may judge the floor differently; wax, shellac and certain plant-based oils pass that test. A modern two-component lacquer is harder wearing, but far harder to remove from an old floor, which is a reason to think carefully before using it on early timber.

Oak in older Sherborne houses sometimes shows the shimmering ray figure of quarter-sawn timber once grime and dark coatings come off, and oak floor restoration can reveal how good those boards were. Old deal floors respond well to pine floor restoration that cleans, repairs and stabilises them without trying to make them look new. Our overall wood floor restoration service brings those together.

parquet wooden floor sanding
wooden floor sanding

Commercial Floor Sanding in Sherborne: School Halls, Gyms and Sports Floors

Sherborne has an unusually large number of schools for a town of its size, and with them come halls, gyms, dining rooms and sports floors that take a battering through term time. Commercial floor sanding in Sherborne is in large part about those floors: how to sand them, refinish them and mark them out again within the narrow window of the school holidays.

Timing is everything. Long summer holidays give the most time, and many schools prefer to have major work done then, with shorter refreshes at Easter or Christmas. Dates are fixed well in advance, often the term before, because other contractors want the same weeks and the floor needs to be cured and lined before pupils return. Fast-curing commercial finishes help the schedule, but a full sand, multiple coats and line marking still need a clear run.

Safety drives the specification. School floors need slip resistance appropriate to how they are used, which is influenced by the finish, its sheen and how it is cleaned. Sports floors need to give predictable grip for running, turning and stopping; too much shine and they become slippery, too little and they can snag. Specialist sports lacquers are designed to balance these demands.

Line marking is part of the job, not an afterthought. Once the floor is sanded and the base coats are on, court lines are set out and painted to the dimensions required by the relevant governing body, for badminton, basketball, netball, volleyball or whatever the hall hosts. That work is done by our own team. Topcoats then go over the paint, which means a player’s shoe scuffs lacquer, not the badminton line itself. Our pages on sports hall floor sanding and gym floor sanding go into more detail.

Assembly halls and dining rooms have different needs: stacking chairs, dropped food, heavy furniture and heavy footfall. School floor sanding covers the approach. A bursar will normally want the job written down before signing it off, so we can supply a method statement for the job, evidence of insurance and referees from earlier commercial work. Between annual recoats, a hall that hosts PE lessons every weekday will generally want a complete resand around year four or five. Offices, shops and pubs follow a similar rhythm, which our commercial floor sanding overview describes.

Sports Lines, Grip and Keeping a Hall Floor in Play

A sports floor in a school or club is a working surface, and it wears in particular ways. The centre of a court and the run-off areas behind baselines take most of the punishment. Dust and grit, brought in on outdoor shoes, wear the finish into grey patches. Lines wear first where players turn hardest. Left too long, the finish breaks through and the timber starts to absorb dirt and sweat.

The best way to keep a hall floor in play is a maintenance cycle. Once a year, often in the summer, the floor is deep-cleaned and given a buff and recoat: a rotary machine with a fine pad keys the existing lacquer and lifts embedded dirt, and a fresh coat of sports lacquer is applied. That restores grip and appearance without taking off any timber, and it can be repeated several times. Only when the finish has worn through, the lines are badly faded, or the floor needs a different line layout, is a full sand needed.

When a hall needs new lines, there are choices. Existing lines can be kept and refreshed; the layout can be changed to suit new sports; and colours can be chosen so overlapping courts are easy to read. Painting lines on a freshly sanded floor gives the cleanest result, since old lines are removed completely in the sanding. The governing body dimensions for each sport set out where lines go, and they are measured from fixed points so the courts are square and in the right place.

Grip changes as a floor ages. A freshly finished floor can be slightly slippery until it has been used and cleaned a few times, while a heavily worn floor can become slippery as dust builds up. Regular dust-mopping with a treated mop, the right cleaning product for sports lacquer and good entrance matting all keep the grip consistent between refreshes.

Halls used for dance, drama and assemblies as well as sport may need a compromise in finish. If the room is used for ballet or contemporary dance more than for ball games, a different sheen or product may suit better. Dance floor sanding explains the differences.

For school dining areas and cafés attached to sports facilities, a tough lacquer that copes with spills and chair legs is usually best. Restaurant floor sanding covers that side.

flooring sanding company
Sunlight across freshly lacquered wooden floorboards

Old Boards, Loose Fixings and Careful Repairs

In a historic house, repairs are the most delicate part of the job. A good repair is sound, safe and close to invisible; a bad one stands out for the rest of the floor’s life.

Most repairs fall into a few groups. Loose boards, which creak and rock as they are walked on, are refixed into the joists, using discreet screws or, where appearance matters, traditional cut nails. Boards cut to run pipes and cables in the twentieth century are often short and poorly supported, so they are re-supported from below. Split boards can often be glued and clamped back together. Damaged sections, from a leak by a window or rot near an outside wall, are cut back to sound wood.

If a board is past mending, floorboard replacement starts with a hunt through the salvaged elm, oak and deal racked in our workshop for a piece of the right breadth and age. Old oak and elm boards are often wide and irregular, so finding a replacement can take time, but the result is far better than new timber. Repairs are recorded in the specification where a building is listed.

The wooden floor repairs page explains the range, and curing a creaking floor covers the causes and cures of noise.

Gaps in old floors are a question of balance. A few wide gaps let in draughts and gather dirt, but filling every joint tightly can stop an old building from breathing and can push boards against each other as they swell. Timber slivers, glued on one side so the board can still move, close the worst gaps neatly. Hairline joints are better suited to a resin bound with the floor’s own dust. More detail on choosing between them is under gap filling.

Surface damage without structural problems, such as a deep scratch from moving furniture, can sometimes be treated locally with wood floor scratch repair, which is particularly useful where the rest of the floor and its finish are worth keeping.

Woodblock Halls and Historic Staircases

Parquet floors appear in many Sherborne buildings, from school corridors and halls to the entrance halls of larger houses. The blocks are mostly oak, set out as herringbone parquet or basket weave, and a good number have spent decades under carpet tiles or linoleum.

The first job is to check every block. Any that sound hollow under a tapping mallet come up, have the crusted glue scraped off their backs, and go down again on fresh adhesive. Where the floor was originally laid in bitumen, which is common in older parquet, the choice of adhesive matters, as some will not bond to it properly. Missing blocks are replaced from reclaimed stock. Only then does sanding start: diagonal passes across the pattern first, then finer passes to bring the surface level and remove cross-grain scratches. Parquet floor sanding explains the method in more depth.

In schools, parquet corridors and halls take heavy traffic, and the right finish is usually a hard-wearing commercial lacquer with a matt or satin sheen for grip. In houses, there is more freedom to use oils or wax.

Staircases in historic houses deserve their own care. Oak or pine treads worn into gentle hollows, moulded nosings, turned balusters and carved newel posts are all part of the building’s history. Stair sanding is done by hand, tread by tread, using small sanders and hand tools, with each step judged individually. Usually the intention is a clean, sound stair that still shows the dip of three centuries of feet.

Painted balustrades and strings are common in older houses, and historic paint can contain lead. It should be tested before any sanding, and chemical stripping is usually safer where lead is found. On stairs, a matt or satin finish gives the best grip.

Wood floor sanding company
Floor sanding taunton

Finishes, Upkeep and Requesting a Sherborne Survey

The right finish depends on the building and the use of the room. Lacquer dries into the hardest skin and wipes clean with least effort. Water-based lacquers keep timber light; oil-based types warm it. Two-component lacquer is the standard choice for school halls, corridors and other heavy-use areas. Wood floor sealing explains the options.

In a panelled sitting room, a penetrating oil or hard wax oil tends to look more at home than lacquer, and if the hearth rug corner wears thin it can be re-oiled on its own. Wood floor oiling covers this. Wax is the traditional choice for historic floors, renewable without sanding but less resistant to water; wood floor waxing explains the upkeep. Any colour is trialled on a hidden board first, since old deal and old oak each react to tint in their own way; wood floor staining explains more. For the warm, glowing look many associate with old houses, see wood floor polishing.

On lacquer, stockinged feet are fine a day after the final coat; the long-case clock and the bookcases are best kept out for two or three more days. Clean with a pH-neutral product and a damp mop; avoid steam mops. Felt pads, mats and regular vacuuming keep grit at bay. In a family house the boards are unlikely to need sanding again for eight to ten years.

Garden-room extensions and rooms with only a concrete screed can be given new timber through wooden floor installation. We can lay it, or the boards can go to the builder already on site, and the choice includes Junkers and Bona ranges.

Booking the free survey starts with two photographs emailed to info@ryansrestoration.co.uk: the room from wall to wall, then a tight shot of the board or joint that prompted you to write. The office phone, 01823 674562, is picked up between eight and six on weekdays, and a Saturday call-out can be agreed. You will receive a written, itemised quotation. For other parts of the county, see floor sanding in Dorset, and nearby, floor sanding in Beaminster.

Sherborne Floor Sanding Questions

That turns on the grade of listing and exactly what is proposed. Listed building consent may be required for works that affect a listed building’s character, and historic floors can be part of that. Checking with the local authority is the owner’s responsibility. We can write a clear specification of the proposed work that can be shared with the conservation officer.

For early floors, finishes that can be renewed or removed without heavy sanding are usually preferred, such as wax, some natural oils or traditional shellac-based coatings. They suit the timber and keep options open for the future. Hard wax oil gives more durability with a similar look. Modern lacquers are tougher but harder to remove from old boards.

Most schools choose the summer holidays for a full sand and line marking, because it gives the longest window for sanding, coating, curing and lining. Shorter buff-and-recoat refreshes can fit into the Easter or Christmas breaks. Dates are best agreed the term before, as holiday weeks are in demand.

Yes. Court lines are set out and painted by our own team to the dimensions specified by the relevant governing body for each sport. They are applied after the base coats and sealed under the final layers of lacquer, so they wear with the floor. Layouts can be changed or new sports added when a floor is fully sanded.

A buff and recoat once a year, often in the summer, keeps the finish and grip in good condition. A full sand is usually needed every four to five years, or when the finish has worn through, the lines are faded or a new layout is needed. Regular dust-mopping and good entrance matting extend the time between both.

Usually, yes, using reclaimed timber from our stock. Old elm and oak boards are often wide and irregular, so finding the right piece can take time, but reclaimed timber gives a much better match in colour, grain and size than new wood. In a listed building, replacement boards are recorded in the specification.

The sanders run with sealed extraction, which captures the vast majority of dust as it is produced. In rooms with fine plasterwork, panelling or valuable contents, items can be removed or covered, and doors sealed. Expect perhaps a faint bloom on a high ledge, not a coating over everything.

In a house the work is usually wrapped up inside three days. An early floor with lots of piecing-in, or one finished in several thin waxed coats, can stretch beyond that. The survey gives a clear idea of the timing, which is set out in the quotation.

Send us a picture of the room and one of its most troubling board, or ring and talk it over. We then visit for roughly thirty minutes at no charge and follow up with the job set out line by line in writing. For a school or commercial building, the survey also covers access, timings and any paperwork needed. See our contact page for details.